Grand Am turn signals not working SOLUTION

I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am.  In September 2007, the turn signals/flashers would intermittently stop working.  We figured out that if you hit the hazards button, the turn signals would work again.  In June 2008, the “hazards button” method would not always work, thus creating a “hazardous” situation for the driver and other cars.  My mechanic and I were having difficulty figuring out where the flasher relay was, so I went online to try to get some advice.  I turns out that many, many Grand Am owners from 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 had this exact problem.  GM even offered to fix the problem for free for SOME owners:

2000-2001 Grand Am, Oldsmobile Alero, Chevrolet Malibu

1999-2000 Grand Am, Oldsmobile Alero, Chevrolet Malibu

The problem is that many owners have found that in those years, their car “isn’t in the VIN range,” even though it has the same problem.

BOTTOM LINE: GM knows about this dangerous situation and is not doing anything about it.  They know that those models have a problem and talk to any dealer — they fix it all the time.  GM is culpable for all accidents that occur because of this problem.  They decided they would fix as little cars as possible.

If you have this problem, call these numbers and report it (have your VIN ready)!

CHEVROLET AT 1-800-630-2438, PONTIAC AT 1-800-620-7668, OR OLDSMOBILE AT 1-800-630-6537 to see if your car will be fixed for free — if not, complain to them.

NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION’S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).

(Thanks Grand Am Owners Forum)

As a benefit to all owners of these cars, I have posted below instructions on how to fix this problem, since I couldn’t find any help anywhere.  I’m sure there are easier ways to do things; I had to figure it out.  Please comment below with tips and I’ll modify my instructions if appropriate.

These instructions are for turn signals not working intermittently.  There is another common problems where turn signals don’t turn off right away — that’s a different problem, but may be worth trying this because it is cheap!

TOOLS: flat head screwdriver, 7 MM socket

1. Visit your local GM dealer (doesn’t have to be Pontiac) and ask for a Hazard Switch for your car (this is the button you press to turn on your hazards).  They will probably know all about your problem.  Don’t be afraid to ask for the part at cost since this should have been a recall.  I got mine for $19:

2. I started with popping out the ignition ring. (Tip from George T in the comments: Don’t use a screw driver to remove the ring around the ignition switch, just pull the bezel with even force and it will remove it without damage.)

Sorry, my picture is bad, but I think you need to gently get pressure with a flat screwdriver to pry it out.  If you don’t do this first, you’ll see what happens — it gets broken:

3.  Next you need to pry off the bezel over the whole center console area.  I put my screwdriver to the right of the radio.  Once I could fit my fingers under the right side of the cover, I firmed pulled and the cover comes off:

4. Once I pulled the cover off, I put in the key, turned the ignition to on, put the car in Neutral and was able to pull out the console cover better:

5. Obviously, behind where the hazard button is located, is what we need to remove.  Start by unclipping the wire.  You need to push in the clip on the left and right side — enough to push the whole part back through the front, but we’ll do that after we remove in inner cover.

6. To take the whole cover off, remove the wires from the ETS button and cigarette lighter.

7. Now get yourself a 7 MM socket to remove the inner cover.  There are three screws holding it in (only 2 shown):

8. Your next job is to push in the two nubs holding the flasher in place, while pushing the whole part back through the front:

9. I had a difficult time doing this.  Many of you will think it’s easy, but I just could not get it to come out.  The black plastic is fragile — avoid breaking it.  The green plastic is fine to break, so maybe a tool to push both sides in at the same time would be best.  (Tip from Jim K in the comments: In order to squeeze the side tabs of the hazard switch to slide it out of the bracket, I taped a ¼” nut on each jaw of my channel locks, and squeezed directly behind the tabs because I couldn’t get a good grip on the tabs themself. Please read on as to why I didn’t want to break it out.) Here’s what things looks like when I finally got it:

10. You should be able to handle the rest yourself, just go backwards of the above steps.

Now a much happier car!

If your turn signal still isn’t working properly, the other big problem I read about is the multi-function switch in the steering column (attached to the turn signal stalk).  That’s much more expensive and I haven’t done it…yet!  The primary symptom of the other problem is that the flasher noise continues even after the turn signal turns off.  This website has some instructions and pictures.

Jim Kjendalen emailed me with these helpful thoughts on why this is happening:

I looked at the data sheet for the IC in the flasher. It looks like the only way for the “flasher” to activate & click, is to see a low impedance or ground on pin 8 of the IC. Crud on the steering column [multi-function switch] as described earlier, can definitely cause this.

I would “hazard” a guess, 🙂 that what’s burning up the flasher module is the extra blinking that is occurring. Each time you hear a click, the relay contacts are opening & closing. Mechanical relays like these have a fixed life span of so many open/close cycles after which they just wear out. Driving around with the relay clicking for hours/hours is shortening the life dramatically.

In short, I don’t think the crud itself is destroying the IC, but the excess clicking is likely wearing out the mechanical relay in the module prematurely. If you fix the steering column crud as soon as you start to hear the unwanted clicking, you probably won’t need to replace the relay.

link to the 8 pin IC http://www.atmel.com/Images/doc4726.pdf

 

[UPDATE 7/10] My car has been getting worse and worse with the turn signal clicking continuing, even with not having the turn signal on.  It is usually in the morning, and it goes away after a few minutes.  However, today it kept doing it for about 45 minutes straight!  I’m wondering whether this multi-function switch problem is actually the reason why the flasher goes bad…

[UPDATE 9/11] My turn signal is making a clicking noise again at random times… I’m going to have to mess with that multi-function switch soon it seems. With 22,000+ visits to this post since June 2008, this is no small problem..

[UPDATE 4/12] Bye bye, Grand Am. Who knows, maybe the next owner will end up reading this very page!

 

Autoplay disabled on new Dell Optiplex and Latitude

I’ve noticed that Windows XP autoplay for installation CDs has been disabled on new Dell Optiplex 745 and Latitude D630 and D830 for the last few months.  I have not read about this anywhere else and have not been able to figure out how to fix it.

Comments are welcome!

“Preparing to Install” Fix — Windows Update in Vista

I’ve been working most of the day on a laptop that I just cannot get the Windows Updates to install.  A while ago, it received the dreaded “Configuring updates: Stage 3 of 3 – 0% complete.  Do not turn off your computer” with a continuous reboot after an automatic update.  See here for more info.  I did the workaround for that (no thanks for Microsoft).

Now, it had error 8000FFFF.  Thanks to nskillen here, I fixed that, but Windows Update would just have “Preparing to Install..” but would never work.

So, my answer was to install this update from Microsoft.  This 937287 update, I believe, is a fixed version of the update that failed in the beginning.  In fact, here is a paragraph from the end of the instructions on how to fix your computer during the Stage 3 of 3 – 0% problem:

To avoid this problem, obtain and install update 937287 from the Microsoft Download Center separately from all other updates on Windows Update site. Install the update that applies to your version of Windows Vista to enable future updates to be installed successfully.

Worst malware infection I’ve seen in years

I’m now working on the worse infection I’ve seen in years.  I’m early in the process, but here are some symptoms:

Once I cleaned the malware up in Safe Mode using AVG Free 8 (which was not easy at all), when I rebooted in to Windows XP, I could no longer run any EXE files.  When I tried to open the Control Panel, it said “C:\windows\explorer.exe Application Not Found.”

I couldn’t find anything on Google that helped me with that message.  I did find this, which fixed that symptom:

http://dougknox.com/xp/file_assoc.htm

I downloaded the EXE file association fix, unzipped it to a floppy disk and was able to run the REG file on the broken computer, and now I can run executable files again.

Back to work on it!

Comcast Cable Internet for $25/month!

For those of you that refuse to pay $45/month for internet, here is another option. Comcast has an economy plan in some areas in which you pay $24.95 per month and get 768Kbps download speeds. They do not advertise this, but have it as an option to compete against Verizon’s 768K service. They also use it as a way to get dial-up users to finally give it up.

Lately in Pittsburgh, they have sent letters saying they are pulling the plug on analog phone customers, and that they must switch to Comcast Digital Voice. Then they offer TV and internet packages along with the phone service. They will include the Economy High Speed Internet in some of these package to keep the monthly cost low.

I am unsure if you must rent the modem or not…

Source: Wikipedia

Also, I read it in my January bill announcing rate increases.

Pictures of a Counterfeit Microsoft Office 2003 Professional

Well, I got burned on eBay. I looked so carefully through listings that I believed were bogus and I settled on a seller (in the USA) with high feedback. I received the box today — a sealed Retail Box of Microsoft Office 2003 Professional. I was a little suspicious at first glance — something didn’t look right. What do you think (click to inspect closer):

I opened it up and here is the CD case:

Here is what really caught my eye, though, a book in the case…

Check out that S!

I pulled out the 1st CD and here it is along with a Genuine OEM CD (click on it to see it better):

Can you tell which is which?? Obviously my scanner makes it hard to see what the holograms actually look like. To the naked eye, they look very similar. The one difference that they can’t seem to replicate is the Microsoft box at the bottom — it should switch between “Microsoft” and “Genuine” when you look at the CD at various angles.

If you look closely, you’ll see that the holographic designs on a sticker on the CD on the right — look at the edge:

It’s just an amazing counterfeiting job.

For now, I opened a dispute with PayPal. The seller said he would refund my money when he got it back. He said he was sorry and that he was duped. I’ll keep this updated.

Here is an excellent summary of how to spot a fake Office 2003.

This is an amazing quote from a Microsoft press release in October 2006:

Overall, the study found, the chances of purchasing genuine, legally licensed Microsoft software on eBay is less than 50 percent.

It’s amazing to me that this can just keep happening. I guess globalization opens up lots of cans of worms.

Here another case of similar fraud.

Here is information about counterfeiting from Microsoft.

Here is detailed information about Office 2003 security features on the CD itself.

UPDATE 5/2/08: Yes, I am dumb. I bought an OEM Office 2003 Professional for around $280 and it’s counterfeit, too! I sent the boxed one back on Wednesday, and I’m hoping I can get the money back on that soon from the seller. I think PayPal may only cover me for $200 if they don’t refund my money. I’m hoping for this new seller that PayPal would cover me for the whole amount since it is a PowerSeller with PayPal Buyer Protection (with 99.7% positive feedback + 2200 rating) if the seller doesn’t refund me.

Here are some pictures:

Notice in the Certificate of Authenticity, on the right side vertically, that is supposed to be an interwoven ribbon, but in this case it is just scanned from an authentic COA and printed very professionally. Here is a close up of the real thing on the left and the bogus COA on the right.

You’ll notice on the real COA little bumps of paper covering the genuine strip and you can see through those bumps a little bit. On the right, the strip is just white and not seen.

Below is the CD itself, just like above, it is a sticker, and not quite as good as the one above, so it must be a different counterfeiter:

When I put the CD into my drive, here is what pops up (I typed in the key) — definitely not Microsoft!!

Followed by:

MY ADVICE:

Stay away from Microsoft and Adobe software purchases on eBay, no-name websites, Amazon Marketplace and everywhere that cannot be guaranteed. The counterfeiters appear to sell to a wholesaler that sells to someone else and no one knows it is fake. My store of choice is , they have a 100% legal guarantee and I’ve purchased thousands of dollars of software from them for years.

Dell Downgrade Service to XP – PHOTOS

I wrote earlier about Dell saving XP with their simple, customer-friendly policy to allow you to buy a Windows Vista Business license and they will ship the computer with XP installed. They call it “Windows Vista Business Bonus.”

Here is what it looks like on their website when configuring a computer (this is a Latitude D630):

You’ll see the Windows Vista(R) Business Bonus, which is available at no extra cost!

I received an Optiplex 330 today in which I ordered the Vista Business Bonus from Dell:

Here is the license sticker:

Dell included this Vista DVD:

And they included this XP CD:

When I turned on the computer for the first time —

This is just a fantastic thing Dell is doing.  They make it SO easy for someone to downgrade from Vista to XP!


Report Your Small Fraudulent Charges

If you got hit with a small fraudulent charge (AKA spam charge) on your credit or debit card, please comment about it here and let the searching world know!

For information about Spam Charges, visit digitalagefraud.com.

I just added a new post focuses on DECORATION ART, LLC — comment there on that charge and here for others.

BADVERTISMENTS! Beware of Bogus Popups – performanceoptimizer.com

I read a lot of current events news and tech articles and about 4 or 5 times in the least month, I’ve had popups that seem to take over Firefox. I call them badvertisements. I believe it is related to an Adobe Flash vulnerability. The unusual aspect of this is that it is happening on good, legitimate sites, like USAtoday.com (WindowsSecrets.com article).

Here are the popups I received:

This shows up at the bottom right of the screen and does strange things to Firefox:

popup 1

The page at http://performanceoptimizer.com says: NOTICE: Errors in your PC can cause data loss, hardware or software failure and performance fall. Install PerformanceOptimizer to fix errors, monitor changes and maintain PC stability!

Once I closed that this page appeared in Firefox (click to view larger image):

PeformanceOptimizer.com

This page appears like it is trying to trick Vista users into thinking it is a Vista window.

Once I closed that tab, this popup appeared:

Another popup

The page at http://performanceoptimizer.com says: Your computer performance is still at low level! Your PC performance and stability can be injured now. It is strongly recommended to optimize your PC performance!

Then, after closing that window, this popup appeared:

3rd popup

The page at http://performanceoptimizer.com says: PerformanceOptimizer will now boost your PC performance. Please select “RUN” or “OPEN” when prompted to start the installation. This file has been digitally signed and independently certified as 100% free of viruses, adware and spyware.

Each time, I’ve been successful in closing all the popups (WITH THE TOP RIGHT RED X) and pages and leaving without infection. DO NOT INSTALL ANYTHING THESE WINDOWS ARE YOU TO!  If you are not protected against viruses or malware, I recommend home users to install AVG 8 Free.

After I had this happen a few times, I went to Adobe’s website to make sure I had the most recent Flash version, I suggest you do the same.

As I learn more, I will post it here.

Also:

iPod Nano (1st generation) skips songs

This is driving me crazy! My iPod Nano keeps ending up skipping songs when they are in the playlist or it starts the song and skips to the next song a few seconds in. I have been able to fix it temporarily by removing the song from the iPod and readding it, but it keeps happening. It happens with different songs, not the same songs each time.

I’ve tried doing a Windows CHKDSK, but that didn’t fix anything.

Here is Apple’s advice, which I don’t like. I’ve done a few total resets, but the problem keeps reoccurring.

.I’ll keep this updated with my status!

UPDATE: A week or so ago, I synched my nano and it became blank again!  I plugged it back in, after a day without my iPod, and it said it was corrupt and to wipe it and start clean.  This changes my Podcast settings and the custom Menu on my iPod again…  I haven’t listened to many music tracks after that, but at least one of the songs skipped.  I’ll troubleshoot again sometime soon!

UPDATE 8/21/08: Boy is this frustrating.  It just keeps corrupting on me.  I’m thinking now that maybe a files or files that are corrupted get on the iPod and give it trouble.  I’m going to try to re-rip some of my media.

[UPDATE 9/2010] I think this is probably something wrong with the Nano itself, as I switched to an identical one using the same computer and I stopped having these problems.