HP d530 Ultra Slim Definitive Guide to Repair

At the school in which I manage the IT, we had 33 HP d530 ultra slim form factor desktop computers donated from a large corporation.  They have been so frustrating, with more than half with hardware problems right now.  I will use this post to list the problems, and solutions with this model.

Rule 1: If you have any problems with an HP d530U, always start by examining the motherboard capacitors.  The only one I’ve seen go bad is the one all alone near the RAM slots:

This one is very bad, or as I like to classify it, a Class 4.  Here is another Class 4:

Brian Morris Capacitor Classification System:
Normal: Capacitor has no signs of bulging on top — totally flat
Class 1: Capacitor bulging slightly, computer working fine
Class 2: Capacitor bulging noticeable, but not too much, computer working fine
Class 3: Capacitor bulging very noticeable, but no “goo” visible
Class 4: Capacitor “goo” visible

I always replace Class 3/4 immediately and plan on replacing Class 1/2 in the short- to mid-term.

Bad capacitor symptoms: computer won’t turn on, freezing, blue screens, turns off while in use

If you need to replace the board, look for the model number on the board and search for that model number on eBay.  I bought lots of 332935-001.  It can be tricky to avoid buying bad boards, but that’s how I did it.

Here is the HP Repair Manual with instructions on how to take apart the computer (start on page 149).  To swap the motherboard, remove the CPU fan, power supply, hard drive, bay drive, front bezel, CPU heat sink & CPU, RAM, front chassis panel, drive bay, PCI card, then unscrew the two screws on the CPU cradle.

If you determine that the capacitors look good, here are your next steps:

Symptom 1: Computer won’t turn on, hard drive light illuminates, but power doesn’t:

In my testing, I tried swapping RAM, processor, motherboard, but found that the solution is to replace the Power Supply. I have been buying power supplies on eBay with part number 308446-001.  NOTE 1/2011 – I’m finding these power supplies hard to come by and the last two I bought were bad upon receipt.  Be careful!

Symptom 2: 511-CPU FAN NOT DETECTED

There could be multiple reasons for this message (like not connecting the fan or connecting it properly, or a bad fan), but I swapped fans and motherboards.  Finally, I swapped the power supply and it was fixed.  The PSU must have not been sending power to the motherboard to run the fan.

Symptom 3: Power light blinks 4 times

I’ve found this to be the power supply each time, although it may not fix it 100% of the time.

Here is a page on HP’s website with a guide to the blinking lights:

http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/Document.jsp?objectID=c00274415

I’ve found this to be very helpful in troubleshooting.

Long Term Problems – HEAT:

These computer sure get super hot.  I’ll tried installing a PCI fan, since it is right below the power supply, but it only dropped the case temperature near the power supply from 120F to 110F.  This may be one of the contributing factors of the part failures.

Here is the HP reference page with lots of info.

If you have questions, post them here.

FIX Grand Am squeak/rattle for $5

Thanks to the great post by GREEDJ at the Grand Am Owners Club I found how to fix this problem and wanted to show some pictures to help others save lots of cash!

My 2002 Grand Am GT (with 104,000 miles) was starting having these really annoying high-pitched squeaks and rattles, especially on small bumps from the front passenger area.  With the radio on, you didn’t hear them, but with it off they were awful.  I had my mechanic look at the twice and he didn’t.  The strange thing about it is that you would hear it less when you put the window down and it sounded like it was in the dash area, rather than down in the wheel well area.

After searching online and finding the post above, I grabbed my Lithium Grease, which you should be able to buy at auto parts stores and maybe Home Depot/Lowe’s:

Then I opened the hood and took a look at the strut mounts at a sharp angle to see inside the rubber bushing:

You’ll see the little holes, as the arrows show.

I then sprayed some grease on the bolt and in each of the 6 holes are 1-2 seconds, as instructed by GREEDJ:

That was it, the squeaks are gone!!!

This should work for the 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005 Pontiac Grand Am and I would imagine other GM cars.

Grand Am turn signals not working SOLUTION

I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am.  In September 2007, the turn signals/flashers would intermittently stop working.  We figured out that if you hit the hazards button, the turn signals would work again.  In June 2008, the “hazards button” method would not always work, thus creating a “hazardous” situation for the driver and other cars.  My mechanic and I were having difficulty figuring out where the flasher relay was, so I went online to try to get some advice.  I turns out that many, many Grand Am owners from 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 had this exact problem.  GM even offered to fix the problem for free for SOME owners:

2000-2001 Grand Am, Oldsmobile Alero, Chevrolet Malibu

1999-2000 Grand Am, Oldsmobile Alero, Chevrolet Malibu

The problem is that many owners have found that in those years, their car “isn’t in the VIN range,” even though it has the same problem.

BOTTOM LINE: GM knows about this dangerous situation and is not doing anything about it.  They know that those models have a problem and talk to any dealer — they fix it all the time.  GM is culpable for all accidents that occur because of this problem.  They decided they would fix as little cars as possible.

If you have this problem, call these numbers and report it (have your VIN ready)!

CHEVROLET AT 1-800-630-2438, PONTIAC AT 1-800-620-7668, OR OLDSMOBILE AT 1-800-630-6537 to see if your car will be fixed for free — if not, complain to them.

NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION’S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).

(Thanks Grand Am Owners Forum)

As a benefit to all owners of these cars, I have posted below instructions on how to fix this problem, since I couldn’t find any help anywhere.  I’m sure there are easier ways to do things; I had to figure it out.  Please comment below with tips and I’ll modify my instructions if appropriate.

These instructions are for turn signals not working intermittently.  There is another common problems where turn signals don’t turn off right away — that’s a different problem, but may be worth trying this because it is cheap!

TOOLS: flat head screwdriver, 7 MM socket

1. Visit your local GM dealer (doesn’t have to be Pontiac) and ask for a Hazard Switch for your car (this is the button you press to turn on your hazards).  They will probably know all about your problem.  Don’t be afraid to ask for the part at cost since this should have been a recall.  I got mine for $19:

2. I started with popping out the ignition ring. (Tip from George T in the comments: Don’t use a screw driver to remove the ring around the ignition switch, just pull the bezel with even force and it will remove it without damage.)

Sorry, my picture is bad, but I think you need to gently get pressure with a flat screwdriver to pry it out.  If you don’t do this first, you’ll see what happens — it gets broken:

3.  Next you need to pry off the bezel over the whole center console area.  I put my screwdriver to the right of the radio.  Once I could fit my fingers under the right side of the cover, I firmed pulled and the cover comes off:

4. Once I pulled the cover off, I put in the key, turned the ignition to on, put the car in Neutral and was able to pull out the console cover better:

5. Obviously, behind where the hazard button is located, is what we need to remove.  Start by unclipping the wire.  You need to push in the clip on the left and right side — enough to push the whole part back through the front, but we’ll do that after we remove in inner cover.

6. To take the whole cover off, remove the wires from the ETS button and cigarette lighter.

7. Now get yourself a 7 MM socket to remove the inner cover.  There are three screws holding it in (only 2 shown):

8. Your next job is to push in the two nubs holding the flasher in place, while pushing the whole part back through the front:

9. I had a difficult time doing this.  Many of you will think it’s easy, but I just could not get it to come out.  The black plastic is fragile — avoid breaking it.  The green plastic is fine to break, so maybe a tool to push both sides in at the same time would be best.  (Tip from Jim K in the comments: In order to squeeze the side tabs of the hazard switch to slide it out of the bracket, I taped a ¼” nut on each jaw of my channel locks, and squeezed directly behind the tabs because I couldn’t get a good grip on the tabs themself. Please read on as to why I didn’t want to break it out.) Here’s what things looks like when I finally got it:

10. You should be able to handle the rest yourself, just go backwards of the above steps.

Now a much happier car!

If your turn signal still isn’t working properly, the other big problem I read about is the multi-function switch in the steering column (attached to the turn signal stalk).  That’s much more expensive and I haven’t done it…yet!  The primary symptom of the other problem is that the flasher noise continues even after the turn signal turns off.  This website has some instructions and pictures.

Jim Kjendalen emailed me with these helpful thoughts on why this is happening:

I looked at the data sheet for the IC in the flasher. It looks like the only way for the “flasher” to activate & click, is to see a low impedance or ground on pin 8 of the IC. Crud on the steering column [multi-function switch] as described earlier, can definitely cause this.

I would “hazard” a guess, 🙂 that what’s burning up the flasher module is the extra blinking that is occurring. Each time you hear a click, the relay contacts are opening & closing. Mechanical relays like these have a fixed life span of so many open/close cycles after which they just wear out. Driving around with the relay clicking for hours/hours is shortening the life dramatically.

In short, I don’t think the crud itself is destroying the IC, but the excess clicking is likely wearing out the mechanical relay in the module prematurely. If you fix the steering column crud as soon as you start to hear the unwanted clicking, you probably won’t need to replace the relay.

link to the 8 pin IC http://www.atmel.com/Images/doc4726.pdf

 

[UPDATE 7/10] My car has been getting worse and worse with the turn signal clicking continuing, even with not having the turn signal on.  It is usually in the morning, and it goes away after a few minutes.  However, today it kept doing it for about 45 minutes straight!  I’m wondering whether this multi-function switch problem is actually the reason why the flasher goes bad…

[UPDATE 9/11] My turn signal is making a clicking noise again at random times… I’m going to have to mess with that multi-function switch soon it seems. With 22,000+ visits to this post since June 2008, this is no small problem..

[UPDATE 4/12] Bye bye, Grand Am. Who knows, maybe the next owner will end up reading this very page!

 

“Preparing to Install” Fix — Windows Update in Vista

I’ve been working most of the day on a laptop that I just cannot get the Windows Updates to install.  A while ago, it received the dreaded “Configuring updates: Stage 3 of 3 – 0% complete.  Do not turn off your computer” with a continuous reboot after an automatic update.  See here for more info.  I did the workaround for that (no thanks for Microsoft).

Now, it had error 8000FFFF.  Thanks to nskillen here, I fixed that, but Windows Update would just have “Preparing to Install..” but would never work.

So, my answer was to install this update from Microsoft.  This 937287 update, I believe, is a fixed version of the update that failed in the beginning.  In fact, here is a paragraph from the end of the instructions on how to fix your computer during the Stage 3 of 3 – 0% problem:

To avoid this problem, obtain and install update 937287 from the Microsoft Download Center separately from all other updates on Windows Update site. Install the update that applies to your version of Windows Vista to enable future updates to be installed successfully.

Worst malware infection I’ve seen in years

I’m now working on the worse infection I’ve seen in years.  I’m early in the process, but here are some symptoms:

Once I cleaned the malware up in Safe Mode using AVG Free 8 (which was not easy at all), when I rebooted in to Windows XP, I could no longer run any EXE files.  When I tried to open the Control Panel, it said “C:\windows\explorer.exe Application Not Found.”

I couldn’t find anything on Google that helped me with that message.  I did find this, which fixed that symptom:

http://dougknox.com/xp/file_assoc.htm

I downloaded the EXE file association fix, unzipped it to a floppy disk and was able to run the REG file on the broken computer, and now I can run executable files again.

Back to work on it!

BADVERTISMENTS! Beware of Bogus Popups – performanceoptimizer.com

I read a lot of current events news and tech articles and about 4 or 5 times in the least month, I’ve had popups that seem to take over Firefox. I call them badvertisements. I believe it is related to an Adobe Flash vulnerability. The unusual aspect of this is that it is happening on good, legitimate sites, like USAtoday.com (WindowsSecrets.com article).

Here are the popups I received:

This shows up at the bottom right of the screen and does strange things to Firefox:

popup 1

The page at http://performanceoptimizer.com says: NOTICE: Errors in your PC can cause data loss, hardware or software failure and performance fall. Install PerformanceOptimizer to fix errors, monitor changes and maintain PC stability!

Once I closed that this page appeared in Firefox (click to view larger image):

PeformanceOptimizer.com

This page appears like it is trying to trick Vista users into thinking it is a Vista window.

Once I closed that tab, this popup appeared:

Another popup

The page at http://performanceoptimizer.com says: Your computer performance is still at low level! Your PC performance and stability can be injured now. It is strongly recommended to optimize your PC performance!

Then, after closing that window, this popup appeared:

3rd popup

The page at http://performanceoptimizer.com says: PerformanceOptimizer will now boost your PC performance. Please select “RUN” or “OPEN” when prompted to start the installation. This file has been digitally signed and independently certified as 100% free of viruses, adware and spyware.

Each time, I’ve been successful in closing all the popups (WITH THE TOP RIGHT RED X) and pages and leaving without infection. DO NOT INSTALL ANYTHING THESE WINDOWS ARE YOU TO!  If you are not protected against viruses or malware, I recommend home users to install AVG 8 Free.

After I had this happen a few times, I went to Adobe’s website to make sure I had the most recent Flash version, I suggest you do the same.

As I learn more, I will post it here.

Also:

US Passport Application Wizard & Firefox/PDF Issue

I’ve had getting a passport on my To Do List for about a year now, and I wanted to get the application done. I visited the Passport Application Wizard, thinking it would make the process very quick and easy. I almost always use Firefox (2.0.0.14) now, and this was no exception. I went through all the pages and filled out all the blanks, only to get the final page with lots of instructions. At the top was a button to “Create Form.” I clicked it, but nothing happens. I clicked Back and kept going back and forth, but it still wouldn’t work.

Passport PDF button

I want to get this done, so I used IE6 to fill out the form again. I hate doing things twice. Indeed, it worked fine, when I clicked the “Create Form” button, it asked if I wanted to Save or Open the PDF.

If this page won’t work properly in Firefox, they need to either fix the code or warn people not to waste all their time with Firefox. I emailed them, we’ll see if I get a reply.

Strange printing issues and fixes

Microsoft’s .NET Framework 3.0 (actually a subsequent automatic update to it) causes some HP printers to have some large problems and Microsoft has been unwilling to care or do anything about it. I believe this will cause some major problems in the future as it becomes necessary to install .NET 3.0.

I’ve seen it on many HP LaserJet printers including 4+, 5, 1300, 4200 and others.

Here is a symptom list:

  • Pages printing on top of each other
    • pages printer on top of one another
    • all pages print on page one
    • multiple pages on page one
  • Microsoft Word 2007 envelopes printing symbols
    • envelopes print garbage
    • envelopes have strange characters
    • symbols print with Calibri or Cambria

Fixes

  1. Update the printer driver with the PCL6 driver from the manufacturer’s website — this was my most used fix
  2. For the envelope problem only, in the printer driver settings see if there is a “Send Truetype as graphics” setting to choose. (Thanks to this site.) You could also try using a different font.

I have worked with Microsoft on these issues, they believe that HP’s drivers are at fault. My ticket number was SRX071205601374 in early December 2007. I am very upset that Microsoft would knowingly automatically install an update that destroys printer drivers. They may fix this finally when some big companies install .NET 3.0 and find that 10,000 of their printers stop working properly. I did my best to warn them!

Here is a very early report of this problem — February 2007.

Microsoft Word 2007 Spellcheck Fix

I’m posting this for the benefit of the Word 2007 world. I spent a lot of time trying to fix a computer in which the spell check would not work in Word. For the benefit of searchers, here are some other word combinations: word 2007 spell check not working, spellcheck off, fix spelling.

Here is a support guide:

Symptom: Misspelled words are not red-underlined in Word 2007.

2. Type in this sentence: “I will going to the store.” If “going” is green-underlined, Spelling and Grammar Checkers are installed, do not start with installing or uninstalling. (If no green underline, install the missing piece from the installation CD as shown below)

Installation

3. Make sure checkboxes are set properly as shown below:

(Review tab, Set Language)

Set Language

(Big round Office Button, Word options, Proofing)

Word options

If all are set properly, click Add-Ins (on left) in Word Options. Click Disabled Items in the Manage drop-down box, click Go, and look what I found:

Disabled items

Click Enable after clicking on “Addin: speller en-us (nlsdata0009.dll)”

Credit for this fix goes to user “Huddy” (from this company: www.hudsonhill.co.uk) here:

http://help.lockergnome.com/office/Word-2007-spell-check-problem-ftopict932165.html

If none of this works, try this:

http://mcpmag.com/columns/article.asp?EditorialsID=1697

Also, other credits:

http://help.lockergnome.com/office/Word-2007-Spell-checker-working-ftopict909134.html

http://localtech.gidblog.com/2007/07/24/fix-microsoft-office-word-2007-spellcheck-not-working/